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‘Englishness with an Italian accent’: What went down at Gucci’s London show



Last night, Sabato De Sarno brought his latest collection to British shores – from Paul Mescal, Lee Know, and Solange on the front row, to Arca DJing the afterparty, here’s everything you need to know about Gucci Cruise 2025

Sabato De Sarno’s decision to head to the UK for this season’s Cruise show may have surprised some, but for the Gucci creative director, the choice was personal. “I owe a lot to this city. It has welcomed me and listened to me,” he explained before the show. As well as De Sarno’s own connection to the capital, the label also shares a historical link to the city, one that well pre-dates de Sarno’s tenure.

In the 1890s, founder Guccio Gucci worked as a luggage porter in London’s Savoy Hotel, and it was his many interactions with the hotel’s guests and their luggage-based needs that inspired him to start his own leather goods business after travelling back to Florence – tonight’s catwalk was something of a return to the source moment for the brand, which laid its foundations over a century ago on these very shores.

For those of you that missed your Tube stop or got stuck on the wrong bus, do not fear – we’ve rounded up everything that went down at tonight’s big London show.

In case guests needed any more reminding that this was De Sarno’s first overseas excursion at Gucci, this season’s invite took the form of a sleek little travel kit. Inside was a monogrammed case stuffed with a selection of beauty essentials – including a chic Gucci lipstick in Sabato’s signature Rosso red – a map of London, and a passport holder with details of the show’s location tucked inside.

Ever since he took the reins at Gucci, De Sarno has made it his mission to combine fashion with the art world, commissioning painters to create ‘Gucci Art Walls’ around the world, and collaborating with Milan’s fine art uni Accademia di Brera on a coffee table tome. It’s no surprise then, that London’s largest art gallery was the location of tonight’s show, as guests headed bankside to fill the Tate Modern’s huge Turbine Hall. “Tate Modern is the perfect cross-section to narrate the city’s essence, with its great Turbine Hall that welcomes and gathers everyone,” said De Sarno of the venue. Inside, the whole space had been Guccified, with neon logos dotted throughout and a massive glittering disco ball strung from the ceiling. At the centre of it all was a specially created poem by former Dazed cover star Mustafa The Poet, which was beamed onto the grey concrete floor as guests piled in. 

At the label’s last catwalk show in Milan, De Sarno pulled huge names like Kirsten Dunst, Julia Garner and Mariacarla Boscono for his front row – but tonight was the turn of the Brit pack. Dua Lipa, Little Simz, Mark Ronson, Riya Sawayama, Mustafa the Poet, Alexa Chung, Kate Moss and daughter Lila all made it down to the banks of the Thames, as did Irish actors and All of Us Strangers co-stars Paul Mescal and Andrew Scott. Also catching a jet across the pond for the show was Kaytranda, Demi Moore, Lee Know of Stray Kids, and none other than Blondie’s Debbie Harry, whose hit “Heart of Glass” formed part of the soundtrack, alongside “The Power of Love” by Frankie Goes to Hollywood and “Devotion” by Tirzah.

The Tate’s typical stark concrete Tanks were given a greenfingered Gucci Garden makeover for the event, with the main space filled up with lush green plants and foliage. It made the whole venue smell amazing – like the middle of a forest just after a rainstorm, which in itself feels very British given our climate. For those wondering what will happen to the plants now the show is done and dusted there’s good news: Gucci is set to donate them to a series of charitable causes and community projects across London.

In the show notes, De Sarno’s collection was described as “Englishness with an Italian accent”, and nodded to his time spent in the city and the coexistence of both cultures simultaneously. On the catwalk, that translated to a typically London mish-mash of aesthetics, in which baggy stone-washed jeans strung with crystals met chic boxy suede jackets in rich shades of camel, uniform-y pencil skirts and cardigans were glammed up with sparkling beadwork, and floor-sweeping gowns in punchy shades of lemon, lime, and tangerine came with slouchy leather bombers chucked over them, as if their wearer had perhaps had to rush out to the off-licence in the middle of a house party and just grabbed whatever coat was hanging by the door to keep the chill at bay. It once again hammered home how good Sabato is at making clothes people actually want to wear: there was a lot to love here.

@dazed Paul Mascal, Andrew Scott, Daisy Edgar-Jones, @Rina Sawayama and Sabato De Sarno at the @Gucci ♬ original sound – dazed

Gucci is well-known for throwing some of the most banging parties in fashion, and Sabato’s first Cruise show was no different. In front of the giant disco ball, Mark Ronson got things warmed up, before Kaytranada took over as late night shifted into early morning. Rounding things off was Arca, who stomped through the dancefloor to get to the stage like the cuntiest person you’ve ever seen and dropped some of the most mind-melting tracks you’ve ever heard. Across the night, Sabato was seen letting loose to “Uptown Funk” alongside Paul Mescal and Andrew Scott in matching uber-low unbuttoned shirts, and 200 students from colleges and universities piled in, as Gucci extended an invite beyond the usual fashion crowd. Today, the hangover is real. 

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