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Editor’s pick: 8 things that caught our eye from the ‘big 4’ fashion weeks

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2 months ago

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From Miu Miu’s video created by artist Cécile B. Evans to Chanel’s giant screens depicting recreations of the boardwalk of Deauville, France – not to mention the brand’s surprise short starring none other than Brad Pitt and Penélope Cruz – video projections were plentiful at the autumn/winter 2024 shows.

Also in Paris, Balenciaga, however, took the crown. Whoever created those videos playing on wall-to-wall screens – depicting random urban and natural scenes reflecting the overflow of information in our daily lives – at the label’s winter 2024 show deserves an award. Dystopian and exhilarating in equal measure, the show provided food for thought for those who paid attention to the bombardment of images on the screens.

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2. Fur real: real or fake, fur is back for good

Khaite’s autumn/winter 2024-25 collection. Photo: Handout
Whether real or fake, fur was everywhere this season. Some of the best examples of fuzzy textures were at Khaite, which showed a beautiful burgundy fur coat among its sleek line-up at New York Fashion Week. Louis Vuitton’s mottled fur coat at Nicolas Ghesquière’s 10th anniversary show in Paris was another stand-out look and, also in Paris, Balenciaga’s maxi faux-fur coats treated with resin for an aged effect looked far from precious and super chic.
The Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2024-2025 ready-to-wear collection, presented on March 5, at Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Invision/AP

3. Knot happening: fun with fibres and knitwear at Stella McCartney, JW Anderson and more

Rick Owens autumn/winter 2024 collection. Photo: Handout
British model Lila Grace Moss presents a creation by Stella McCartney for the women’s ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2024-25 collection as part of Paris Fashion Week, on March 4. Photo: AFP

It might have been unsurprising to see plenty of knitwear ready for the autumn/winter season, but the best pieces were from brands that had fun playing with fibres. Knit tops were knotted and bundled around the upper torso at Rick Owens in Paris, while Jonathan Anderson knotted, folded and pleated knit dresses, treating them almost like sculptures for his JW Anderson imprint, unveiled in London. Back in the City of Light, Stella McCartney had the most fun with knits, offering pieces made by hand-knitting looping ropes in responsible alpaca yarn, in bright hues like cerulean.

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4. New kids on the block: Diane Chiu and América González were everywhere

América González for Ferragamo. Photo: Handout
The two models who by our guesstimate walked the most shows, or at least the most “major shows”, were Canadian Diane Chiu, who has already starred in a Bottega Veneta campaign, and Venezuelan América González, who has a Fear of God campaign and a few Vogue covers under her belt. We’re looking forward to seeing more of the two beauties next season and beyond.
Diane Chiu walking for Bottega Veneta. Photo: Handout

5. The measure of a man: Daniel Roseberry’s heel homage

The famous show at Schiaparelli’s autumn/winter 2024 collection. Photo: Handout

Schiaparelli creative director Daniel Roseberry often uses his accessories to make statements about his role as a dressmaker. For the autumn/winter 2024 show in Paris, the designer introduced a sandal with a curved heel and leather straps looking like a tailor’s measuring tape. It was a cute homage to the work of the couturiers, seamstresses and the likes who work behind the scenes to make magic happen.

6. Sheer delight: Saint Laurent leads the risqué wave

Anthony Vaccarello’s autumn/winter 2024-25 collection for Saint Laurent, unveiled at Paris Fashion Week, on February 27. Photo: Invision/AP
Chloe’s autumn/winter 2024 collection. Photo: Handout
Saint Laurent made headlines with its line-up of sheer tops, sheer dresses, sheer blouses and sheer everything at its autumn/winter 2024 show in Paris, but the brand wasn’t the only one to play with transparency. From Chloé to Valentino and Givenchy, sheer fabrics exposing the breasts and more were everywhere. While the style is likely to be embraced by some celebrities – we’re thinking of you, Olivia Wilde and Florence Pugh – luxury clients are less likely to bare all, but we can bet these risqué pieces will be transformed into more customer-friendly creations before they hit the retail floor.

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Valentino’s autumn/winter 2024 collection. Photo: Handout

7. Waisted: statement belts are still a thing

Branding, loud and proud: a Chloé belt on the runway at Paris Fashion Week, on February 29. Photo: EPA-EFE

Statement belts have been a thing for a few seasons now, but for autumn/winter 2024 designers had a field day playing with buckles and the like. We loved the gold chain belts with the Chloé logo in cursive script introduced in Paris by Chemena Kamali for her debut at the French label; Jonathan Anderson’s maxi buckles cinching the waist of those cut-out dresses at Loewe; and Victoria Beckham’s wire hanger-inspired brooches that, while not technically belts, were pinned to the waists of fluid jersey dresses.

A creation by Victoria Beckham for the women’s ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2024-25 collection, presented as part of Paris Fashion Week, on March 1. Photo: AFP
More belts from Loewe, whose autumn/winter 2024-25 collection was unveiled at Paris Fashion Week on March 1. Photo: EPA-EFE

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8. Nicolas Ghesquière’s 10th anniversary at Louis Vuitton

Models present creations by Nicolas Ghesquière from Louis Vuitton’s ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2024-25 collection, marking the designer’s 10th anniversary with the maison, on March 5. Photo: AFP
Fashion with a capital F. An intergalactic set for the history books. Star power to rival the Oscars. A remarkable milestone. The Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2024 show had it all. Attended by the likes of Cate Blanchett, Emma Stone and Lisa from Blackpink, the show was a celebration of women’s artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière’s 10th anniversary at the maison. The Parisian blockbuster event was a fitting way to end a week of unparalleled creativity and to pay homage to one of the industry’s visionaries.
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